September 16, 2006
Brunch is a wonderful concept. Breakfast for layabouts. An excuse to start the day with such gastro-oddities as devilled kidneys, hot-smoked fish, muffins and hollandaise sauce, perhaps even cold curry.
Brunch seems to conjure up bygone times. The indian summer of the Empire. Lazy Edwardian mornings, playing crouquet on obsessively manicured lawns. Punting down the Isis. Jolly japes and pin-stripe slacks. That kind of malarkey.
Today we celebrated the arrival of the weekend with a brunch of sweet, creamy coffee and tomato omelette, cooked Lizzy David-style.
1. For two people, take 3 or 4 tomatoes. Skin them. Chop them into small pieces. Stew slowly in butter, with plent of seasoning and a touch of white sugar. You want a thickish sauce. Add fresh herbs such as parsley or marjoram if you’ve got any in the fridge or garden.
2. Whisk together four eggs. Season. Add a gulp of butter to your usual omelette or pancake pan and place over a medium heat. When the butter starts to froth, add half the beaten eggs.
3. Straight away, as the eggs begin to set, use a spatula to pull an edge of the omelette towards the centre. Tip the pan to allow the egg mixture to pour round, filling the gap. Do this a couple of times.
4. When the omelette still has some soft egg on the surface, add a tablespoon or so of the tomato mixture in a line down the centre. If you like, sprinkle with some grated parmesan.
5. Roll the omelette over the tomato, and slide on to a plate.
Best consumed with crusty bread and the Guardian Sports section; with the Archers omnibus harmlessly burbling along in the background, anticipation of Arsenal v Man U building.